Gold grillz evolved from a symbol of Black culture and hustle, pioneered by Eddie Plein, into a mainstream fashion trend, highlighting a deeper cycle of innovation, appropriation, and resilience.
Gold grillz, once dismissed as a symbol of rebellion and “gangster” culture, have transformed into a mainstream fashion statement and lucrative business. But their journey from Eddie Plein’s Brooklyn basement to the global spotlight reveals a deeper story of cultural innovation, appropriation, and resilience.
Before gold grillz became a mainstream fashion flex seen on everyone from athletes to influencers, they were a statement—a symbol of Black culture, artistry, and hustle. But like many things that start in our communities, it didn’t take long before others saw the dollar signs and jumped in.
Let’s be real: Eddie Plein, a Black entrepreneur, didn’t just pioneer grillz—he invented the blueprint. Back in the '80s and '90s, Eddie was crafting custom gold teeth for artists like Flavor Flav and later OutKast, setting the foundation for what would become an iconic part of hip-hop culture. Highsnobiety breaks it down beautifully—how Eddie started in New York and built his brand from the ground up, long before the term “dental jewelry” was even a thing.
Fast forward to the 2000s, and suddenly Johnny Dang is all over TV and rap lyrics, crowned the “King of Grillz.” But let’s be honest—Johnny didn’t start the wave. He capitalized on it. And this is the pattern: something begins in the Black community, often gets demonized (remember when grillz were seen as “ghetto” or “unprofessional”?), then a non-Black figure rebrands it as luxury and cashes in when it becomes palatable to the mainstream.
Meanwhile, how often are Black entrepreneurs funded to scale ideas that originated with us? Grillz are just one example. This same cycle plays out in fashion, beauty, tech—you name it. We build it, the culture vultures flip it, and we’re left fighting for space in the market we created.
Even the Wikipedia article on grillz lists Eddie Plein as the originator, but you’d be surprised how few people know that. And fewer still support Black-owned grillz businesses today, even though they exist and are doing some of the most innovative work out there.
It’s time we put our money where our culture is. Support the Black business marketplace, fund our stories, wear our styles—and credit the source. Because our influence doesn’t just move the needle—it is the needle.
